Cotter Pin Misadventure

 I was fixing up a Peugeot UO-8 with super stuck cotter pins. My usual method of using a C clamp and a socket as a spacer didn't work this time. I added penetrating oil and let it sit for a few hours, then used a propane torch on the crank:

 

 

This still didn't work, unfortunately. Even after tightening the clamp and hitting it with a hammer, the pin refused to move. I left the nut loose, sitting slightly past the end of the pin. The pushing force from the clamp ended up stripping the threads off the threaded end of the cotter pin:

 With my first attempt unsuccessful, I left the stripped retaining nut loose and then rode the bike for about 12 miles. The next day I applied more penetrating oil and let it sit for another 8 hours. Then I rigged the crank up with a large portable vise, and cranked down on the handle:

This time, the cotter pin moved:

Next I could pull the pin out and slide the left crank off the spindle. Here's the old pin with the threads that I ruined earlier:

Onto the drivetrain side. The existing cotter pin on this side had already been smashed and bent over by someone else's unsuccessful attempt with a hammer. I decided to unbolt the chainrings, and unscrew the right side bottom bracket cup from the frame so that I could put this assembly on a work bench.

Taking a tip from the great Sheldon Brown, I used a pedal spindle to drive out the remnants of this cotter pin. It took a few hard hits, but it came right out after heating the crank with a propane torch:

At this point I thought I was done, but this crank still didn't want to slide off the spindle. I had to clamp the spindle in my small vise and heat it again with the torch in order to rotate the crank off the spindle:

I'm impressed by how much this crank was able to fight me. It was like trying to take an old rusty car's suspension apart. At least now I can service the bottom bracket bearings and clean out the 50 year old grease. Cheers.

Schwinn Prelude Restoration

Ever since I was in college I really wanted a Schwinn Prelude. I thought it was a really high-end bike at the time, but much more realistically affordable than a Paramount. I finally found an inexpensive 1987 model for sale, but it needed a lot of work. I took the wheels and the busted saddle saddle off (and thankfully the aluminum SR Laprade seatpost didn't fight me too much. They're often rust welded in place).

Next I took the brakes off for cleaning and repairs (don't mind the reflector, it's not going back on):

The cables came out of the brake levers without issue:

Next I removed the handlebars:

 Then the fork:

The headset bearings were in good shape. The only caveat was the corrosion on the outside of the lower bearing race. This bike might have either sat outside or in a damp basement for way too long. I removed it to try cleaning it up:

 Next I removed the drivetrain for cleaning. The rusty chain needed to go:

 Then I removed the derailleurs:

 

 Next the cranks:

 

 And then the bottom bracket:

  

 The bearing cups had a retaining ring holding the ball bearings in place. I pried it out in order to properly clean the bearings underneath:

  

 The hub bearings were next. I removed the freewheel:

 Then I unscrewed the bearing cones and removed the ball bearings for cleaning:

The quick release skewers were very rusty, but I was able to clean them up with Naval Jelly:

The axles and bearings also cleaned up nicely with mineral spirits:

 Time for reassembly. I repacked the hub bearings with automotive grease:

 Same with the bottom bracket cups. I omitted the retainer rings because they were bent up from removal, and aren't really necessary anyway.

 I repacked the headset bearings with marine bearing grease, in case I ever get caught in the rain.

 I also pressed the lower headset cup back into the frame. The rust dissolver removed the surface rust, but it's still pitted. Oh well.

 Now the fork can be reinstalled:

 I had to do something about the rim strips. The original soft rubber ones that came with the bike are too narrow to fully cover the spoke holes in the rim, and I have no idea how the inner tubes ever held pressure. 

 That's better: 

 Now I can start hanging parts on the frame. I grabbed a white saddle and a pair of period-correct MKS AR-8 pedals from my local bike co-op. I reinstalled the original drivetrain, which looks quite nice when it's all cleaned up: 

 I wrapped the handlebars in white:

 Before re-installing the cables, I like to take a file and round off any sharp corners on the ends of the cable housings:

 Finally, here's the finished bike:

 This bike looks the same as a more common Schwinn LeTour, but there are a couple differences. The tire clearances are narrow, and a 32mm tire will not fit. The Colombus steel tubing on the Prelude was more expensive than the True Temper frame on a LeTour from the same era, but the weight difference is insignificant. As for how it rides, I think the Prelude is one of my best handling road bikes. It's agile, but stable at higher speeds. It also feels very fast on the skinny 23mm wide tires. My college self would have been thrilled to have it.