Friday, September 13, 2013

Raleigh Technium Teardown

I have a late 80's Raleigh Technium that needs some serious work:

I think these bikes are cool because they have aluminum tubes bonded to steel lugs. This particular example looks like it sat outside for a decade or more. I mean, just look at that drivetrain:

I would almost consider this bike a worst case scenario in terms of repair work needed. The cables will likely be useless, the tires are shot, the chain probably needs replacing, and every bearing is going to be dry or rusty. I would definitely avoid buying a bike like this if you don't have the right tools or experience. Fortunately I have lots of tools, so lets dig in.

These crank bold covers unscrew with an allen key:

Now I just use a 14mm socket to remove the crank bolts:

And then pull the crank off with my crank remover:

Crank off:

Those chainrings can be removed with a special little tool with small prongs to fit in the two slots. You need this to keep the little nuts from turning as you unscrew the chainring bolts:

Now just unscrew the bolts with a 5mm allen key (they sometimes come with thread locker on them, so expect them to be tight at first).

All disassembled:

I really only did that so I could clean up those rusty bolts. Next it's the chain's turn:

A slightly rusty chain can be revived by soaking it in motor oil for a while. This one might be too far gone, but I'll try it anyway.

After taking the rear wheel off, I can remove the freewheel with a special tool:

That was easier than I thought:

Now the brakes:

And now the handlebars. First loosen the clamp for the stem shifters:

Then unscrew the stem bolt. If it rises up and the stem still won't move, smack the bolt down with a hammer.

With the quill loosened, you should be able to pull the stem and bars out. Sometimes the aluminum stem can weld itself in place, and then you're going to have a bad day. Fortunately, I had a good day:

The fork comes out after unscrewing the top nut and the bearing race underneath:

That pile of parts used to be a bike:

I'll stop here for now. My next post will show how I restored this bike. With the right tools, even this rusty old bike came apart easily. The most important things to look for would be frame or wheel damage, so always inspect a used bike before you buy. This one is actually in decent shape despite all the rust, and deserves a second chance.

5 comments:

  1. After 6 years in storage, I finally took my Technium 460 to the bike shop to get fixed from a crash that put me in the hospital & rehab for a month. The crash did more damage to me than the bike. They upgraded everything but the cranks and derailleurs. It looks great and rides like a modern bike. However, this past weekend I noticed the cranks were loose and after examination I saw the crankshaft nut with 2 flats that is on the gear side of the assembly looked like it needed tightening. It looked like it was 38mm and the narrowest tool I had were channel-locks. The bottom line is it won't tighten, it seems to be stripped. I don't have a crank puller so I guess I'm limited in what I can do. I'm preparing myself for another large repair bill as I'm guessing if the threads on the frame are stripped and it's not going to be an easy repair. My crank set looks like yours, so any insight into the assembly of the crank would be appreciated.

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    1. It's tough to strip the frame's threads. More likely, the bottom bracket bearings just got loose. That crankshaft nut you mentioned is actually a bearing cup (I show how it all comes apart in my next post), and it probably just needs to be tightened down. You will need a crank puller and a 12" adjustable wrench, and a 14mm socket to remove the nut that holds the crank on the spindle. Don't worry, these tools arent expensive. Here's my full bottom bracket teardown procedure bottom bracket teardown procedure.
      You probably don't need to go that far, but just remember that the right side cup is reverse threaded and you need to turn it counterclockwise to tighten it

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  2. Thanks for bringing that up. I may not have turned it enough since I didn't want to damage the paint. I'll take it back to the shop and have them put a spanner on it and keep my fingers crossed that it works. I thought it had to be a left handed thread since it would be ridiculous to have the regular forces unscrew it during use. Since getting the bike back I've only put 40 miles on it but I'm 220lbs. and half of my riding circuit is climbing a hills. My only other thought is someone attempted to torque it down and stripped the threads, but from the looks of it there are nearly an inch of thread on the nut, is that the case for the bracket as well? Is that part of the bracket aluminum too? Thanks.

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    Replies
    1. I believe the bottom bracket shell is made of steel on these bikes. Also, I've put as much torque on those bottom bracket cups as I possibly can and I still can't strip them out.

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  3. I took the bike to the shop today and the tech took it apart right off the bat since he said it was very unusual to see a lose fixed side cup. Anyway he was right, it was sheered off. He was able to un-thread the rest of the cup and when he tried to install a newer cartridge style, it was interfered with from a rivet. So he reassembled using a new cup and bearings. $45 was well worth the money. Thanks again. I hope this experience helps someone else.

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