Notice the two small holes on the face of the freewheel? You can use a hammer and centerpunch on these holes to unscrew the front cover plate (this piece is actually a bearing race, and it's the only thing holding your freewheel together). The cover plate is reverse threaded, so angle your punch in a clockwise motion to unscrew it:
Now be very careful as you remove the cover plate if you intend to reuse the freewheel. Put a big towel under the wheel to catch the little ball bearings because they will spill out all over the place once you remove the gear mechanism. Here is the cover removed:
Now you can lift off the gear cluster (prepare for an avalanche of ball bearings):
That core piece is the part you need to unscrew from the hub. Remove the washers, pawls, and springs (if possible. The pawls weren't easy to remove on this particular freewheel so I just left them in place). Now clamp the flat parts securely in a bench vise and use the entire wheel as leverage to unscrew the core piece:
Here is the bare wheel hub:
Now comes the tedious part. You need to add a little grease around the races that the ball bearings used to spin on, and stick each ball bearing back into place. This might take a while:
Once the bearings are all back in place you can reassemble the freewheel. Contrary to many popular sources, this is usually possible without any tools whatsoever. You just need to slide the core piece into the gear cluster with a turning motion. It's easiest if you angle the core piece so that you engage one pawl first, then twist the gear cluster while pressing the halves together until the second pawl slips into place (you might need to persuade it with a small flat screwdriver):
Once the two pieces are back together you just need to screw the cover piece back on. Use your hammer and punch again to make it nice and tight, since you don't want it to come loose while you ride. I also like to drip lots of oil onto the ball bearings just before replacing the cover piece in order to thin out the grease. This way the bearings will still spin freely in very cold weather. Here is the completed freewheel:
This is quite a bit of work if you don't have the correct removal tool, but at least your freewheel will be in better working order due to the fresh grease inside.
Good article, now if I just could get it back to gather , not sure if spring retaining pawls is shot ? or how to tether pawls the from falling out when putting core back in hub ! Thanks for the education
ReplyDeleteThe easiest freewheels to rebuild have a circular metal clip that fits over the pawls and acts like a spring while keeping them in place. If your freewheel has actual springs underneath the pawls, try using some thick grease to hold everything together as you reassemble it.
Deletekudos to the write up! Did mine similar, sans removing the core... i broke a spoke and had a hard time getting it out because of the gear protector shield. Does that come off after the core is removed? i think i should remove it before putting in another spoke. Your thoughts?
ReplyDeleteOnce you unscrew the core, the spoke protector will pop right off. Good luck!
DeleteThe special tool for the hub is: Park Tools Freewheel removal tool, FR-2C FR-2 Suntour 2-notch. It is available from many sources for $9 w/free shipping. If you just want to change spoke(s) you might not have to fight the 72 loose ball bearings in the free hub.
ReplyDeleteI have an almost identical bike, Grand Tourer, same color and decals. Spooky! On mine the free hub feels ok but it has spend time in the rain.
The inner hub will have been tightened to the wheel with the torque of a rider standing on the pedals in low gear (maybe 150 ft-lbs?) along with some rust. I'm buying the special tool.